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" ZARI " ( golden ), is an attributive adjective, which is attributed to ZAR (gold). It
means made of gold. Therefore, ZARI is brocade with gold weft".
About 1000 B.C. fabrics were woven in the from of two-weft, in East of Iran. In
SASANID era (early 7th century), Iranian could weave the fabric with high durability
and strength by the carefulness in the twisting the silken yarns.
Brocade is named of traditional fabric that all wefts are silver or gold and their warps
are silk. Nowadays a large number of these fabrics belonging to the SASANID era (
last dynasty of native rulers to reign in Persia before the Arab conquest in 640 A.
C.) exist in royal treasure in Tehran or in famous churches in the Europe and
Japan's museums. It is obvious that the king of SASANID donated these precious
pieces to the imperial western court. The designs of SASANID are usually
combination of hunting ground and birds. In regard of the remaining fabric from this
age, we can say that the combination of these fabrics reached to the ultimate point
of artistic creativity, harmony, design and color.
The texture of ZARI was welcomed into the age of Safavi Dynasty (late 15th
century). Provinces such as Kashan, Yazd, and Isfahan became major centers for
creation of this art. The culmination of this art is seen during Safavi era in Iran. The
motifs and designs of fabrics, like the design of rugs, were drawn before hand. The
difference is that the motifs are repeated throughout the fabrics.
This art flourished in the contemporary era. In the year 1929, with the attempt of
Master "Hosein Taherzadeh Behzad Tabrizi", the first workshop of ZARI with
attendance of "Habiballah Tarighi" began to work in Tehran. This workshop has
continued it's work, and a few remaining artists, produce the unique brocades in
limited quantity but high quality.